Ments



May 15, 1923.. 1,455,523

H. T. DOULETT ART OF SHOEMAKI NG Criginaly Filed NOV. 13, 1914 y az Fig 5- Fig 4 Fig.

Patented May l5, 1923.

UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE.

HENRY T. DOULETT, OF BROCK'ION, MASSACHUSETTS,ASSIG'NOR, BY MESNE ASSIGN MENTS, IO UNITED SHOE MACHINERY CORPORATION, OF PATTERSON, NEW JERSEY,

A CORPORATION OF NEW JERSEY.

ART OF SHOEMAKING.

i Original application filed November 13, 1914, Serial No. 871,990. Patent No. 1,434,356, dated October 31,

connection with the accompanying drawings,

is a specilication, like reference characters on the drawings indicating` like parts in the several figures.

This invent-ion relates to methods of in seating eyelets, and is herein set forth by way of illustration in its application t-o the V settingof eyelets in such manner that the,

ends of the eyelet barrels are eleiiiclied between adjacent layers of material. lili/Then eyelets are so inserted in boots or shoes, the opera-tion is known as blind or invisible eyeleting. lt is characteristic of both of these operations that the eyelet is inserted through one or more of the layers of the shoe upper.

from the side opposite to that from which the eyelet setting tool enters, and that the end of the eyelet barrel is clenched between adjacent layers ofthe upper.

The terms blind eyeleting and invisible eyeleting have frequently been used interchangeably. Strictly speaking, however, 111 blind eyeleting the eyelet is inserted through the outer layer, that is, the upper leather. and set with its flange or head seated upon the outside of the upper leather, so that the eyelet fla-nge is visible on the eX- tcrior of the. finished shoe, the end of the eyelet barrel beine; clenched between adjacent layers of the upper, usually between a reinforcing' stay and a lining or facing. ln invisible eyeletino` as distinluished from blind eyeleting, the eyelet is inserted in the inner layer. that 1s', the lining` or facing, and set with its flange seated upon that layer` the end of the eyelet barrel being clenched between the upper leather and the adjacent layer, which is usually the reinforcingA stay. so that the eyelet is not visible on the exterior of the shoe.

The invention will be set forth herein with particular reference to its applicability to the insertion of invisible eyelets in boots and shoes, although it is to be understood Divided and this application filed March 1, 1915.

serial No. 11,201.

that in various aspects the invention is not so limited.

Prior to the present invention, the setting of eyelets invisibly in boots and shoes was an inconvenient, slow and expensive operation. Before this invention, invisible eyc loting was generally performed in one of two ways. Some manufacturers inserted invisible eyelets before the layers of the upper were stitched along the lacing slit and around the top of the upper, the layers being partly secured together by cement or by stitching in such manner as to leave them unsecured at their edges adjacent to the lacing slit. Then, after all the lacing holes had been punched through all the layers of 'the upper, the margin of the outer or leather layer along the lacing slit was turned bacia from the inner layers so that the eyelets could be set in the inner layers in the regir lar way, that is, as visible eyelets are set. Other manufacturers completely stitched the layers of the upper together along the lac ing slit and around the top of the upper before inserting the eyelets, punched all the liiicingg,` holes through all the layers, and then turned the outer or leather layer of the upper back away from. the inner layers and set the eyelets in the inner layers in the regular way.

Both of these practices were open to serious objections. ln the first place each of these practices required that the punching ol the lacing` holes and the setting of the eyelets be performed by the use of differd ent machines in two sepa-rate'operations and was, therefore, slow and expensive. Moreover, the lirst ot' these practices not only involved additional handling of the upper in order to complete the stitching, but it frequently happened that, by reason of the partingT of the edges of the upper to permit the settingof the eyelets, the layers of the upper became disarranged so that the eyelets failed to register properly with the lacing' holesin the finished shoe. When the second practice above outlined was followed, it was awkward and ditlicult to insert the topmost eyelets, even when `the outer or upper leather layer has been turned back away from the other layers as far as possible, because of the proximity of the lacing holes at the top of the shoe to the corners formed by the stitched edges of the upper. Furthermore', the insertion of the topmost eyelets frequently involved unavoidable distortion ot the layers relatively to each other and in this eventalso the eyelets tailed prop` erly to register with the lacing,` holes.

ln setting` eyelets in accordance with the novel method ot this invention, aiiter the layers of: the material have been assembled in the relation which they are 'to have in the finished shoe, a settingl tool is inserted in a hole in the material and, during relative movement ot the setting' tool aud the eyelet, the end ot the eyelet barrel is turned outward and downward while the upsetting shoulder ot the tool is located in its operative positionbetween two adjacent layers oi the material. ln the exemplilication ot the method herein set forth with particular reference to its application to setting` inf visible eyelets in the manut'acture of shoes an eyelet setting' tool .is inserted in a lacingl hole through the layers ot ashoe upper from one side of the upper, and an eyelet is advanced into engagement with the other side of the upper in alinemcnt with the settingl tool. The eyelet and the seti'iing,- tool are then relatively moved to torce the end ot the eyelet barrel through one or more layers oit the upper into engagement with the upset-- ting` shoulder oi the tool between the outer or leather layer oit the upper and the adj acent layer, usually and as herein illustrated a reinliorein@l stay. During continued relative movement ot the setting tool and the eyelet, the setting shoulder of the tool curls the end of the eyelet barrel progressively outward and downward so as to clench it leather.

lor less flattened in accordance with the requirements oi the work but in all cases being shaped to engage the clenched portion of the eyel'et barrel out to its outer edge. lhave discovered, however, that satisfactory clenchi'ng' may be produced by the employment of an upsetting' surface which in cross section or contour comprises an arc ot' not more than 90O and which will not engage the clenched. portion` ott' the eyelet barrel over its whole width but will act to impart a partial curl orfroll to so much of the end of the eyelet barrel as is forced over it. As the clenching operation progresses the material of the eyelet barrel, which is inherently ductile, will follow along the same curved path that has been imparted to its advancingend, lirst outward and theny downward into engagement with the surface oij the work. In this way there is formed in the barrel a complete clench ot substantially semi-circular cross section. This discovery is ot' the greatest importance in connection with invisible eyeleting since it renders it possible for the lirst time to utilize tor this work an upsetting tool introduced through a small hole in the outer layer oi.: the work. ll/loreover the novel procedure oi impartingv an initial outward curl to the eyelet barrel and then progressively subjectingvmorc of the loarrel to the same treatment as the ends oi" the eyelet prongs pass beyond the settingl shoulder is itscl'l3 of rcat importance.

rllhe practice ot the method o'lE this invention has overcome the above-mentioned and other diilicul'ties previously encountered in blind and invisible cyeleting, since this invention makes it entirely practicable to punch lacing' holes and set the eyelets in shoe uppers with the ends of the eyelet bar* rels clenched between adjacent layers oi? the upper all in one operation and with substantially the saine ease and 'facility as the setting,l oit regular visible eyelets. lllie present invention also uraltes it entirely practicable for the layers oit shoe uppers which arel to have blind or invisible eyelets inserted in them to be permanently and completely secured together before the eyeleting in the .relation which. they are to have in the tinished shoe, so that the 'uppers may be handled in the tactory in the usual routine and with the usual sequence of operations. Moreover, blind or invisible eyelets may be inserted in shoe uppers without disturbing` in the slightest the normal and final relative positions of the layers o'l the uppers, thus insuring; perfect alinement or" the eyelets with the lacing holes. i

Referring to the arcompanyinnv drawings which exemplify the practice ol the present invention in a preferred manner:

Fig. l is a view illustrating' the step olr securing together the edges oli the layers o' nlaterial ot a shoe upper;

Fig. 2 a perspective view, partly broken away, oli a shoe upper having` invisible eyelets inserted therein, with a settingi tool and punch in operati'i'fe relation thereto; l

Figs. 3 and 4 are large scale views further illustrating; the operation of insertingan invisible eyelet in the layers of material ot' a shoe upper; and i Fig. 5 is a longitudinal section oiz the settinotool ot Figs. 2, 3 and 4t.

l/Vhen eyelets are to be set in shoe uppers in accordance with the novel method ot this iuventionas exemplified in the drawings, preparatory to the insertion of the eyelets the outer or leather part of the shoe upper and the lining part are stitched together at their edges along the lacing slit 11 and approximately at f right angles thereto around the top 13 of the upper, the layers ot the upper, comprising the upper layer 10, the lining 12 and the reinforcing stay 14, having been previously cemented together. Also, usually simultaneously with the stitching, the surplus lining material is trimmed ofi. This operation, termed under trimming,77 is illustrated in Fig. 1 in which the. needle bar 1G oit a sewing machine is shown with a needle 18 and a cutter 20 secured thereto, the cutter 20 operating progressively as the stitching proceeds along the edge olf' the upper. By this procedurethe layers of the shoe upper are permanently secured together in the relation which they are to have in the finished shoe and the upper is ready to be eyeleted.

ln setting eyelets invisibly in shoes, as herein illustrated, a setting tool 26 is inserted trom the outer side oi the layers ot a shoe upper by introducing the leading end 24 ot the setting tool 2G through a lacing hole 23 in the shoe upper, the hole 23 having been punched through the layers ot the shoe upper by a punch 22.

An eyelet 28 is introduced trom the opposite side of the upper; that is, as illus trated, it is advanced into engagement with the lining 12, the eyelet being supported upon a lower set 30 having a center spindle 32 by which the eyelet is taken from a raceway (not shown) and which is forced baclr into the lower set 30 when the spindle 82 engages the leading end 24 of the setting tool 2G. The lower set 30 is raised to cause relative movement of the setting tool 26 and the eyelet 28 to force the end 3B of the eyelet barrel through the lining'12 and the reinforcing stay 14 into engagement with the upsetting shoulder 34 ot the setting tool 26 which shoulder is then located between the outer or leather layer 10 and the reiniorc ing stay 14 as illustrated in Fig.

During further relative movement ot the upper and lower sets the prongs of the` eyelet barrel are 'forced outwardly and then downwardly between the outer layer 10 and the reinforcing stay 14 and clenched upon the reinforcing stay 14 as illustrated in Fig. 4.

It will be observed that the upsettingI shoulder 34 of the setting tool 26 is formed with a curvature of C or thereabouts (in cross section) so that it does not at any time engage the clenched portion oi the eyelet barrel over its entire extent. During the relative movement of the eyelet 28 and the setting tool 26, as the eyele't prongs are progre'ssively subjected to the action of the upsetting shoulder 34 of they tool, the upsettiuof shoulder acts noon successive vportions ot' the eyelet prongs back ot their ends, thus progressively continuing the curling action of the prongs and causing the ends of the prongs, as they pass beyond the upsetting` shoulder, to maintain the curvature initially imparted to them by the upsetting shoulder and causing them to curl outwardly and r downwardly until the prongs are eventually clenched upon the reinforcing stay 14.

It will also be observed that the curvature of the upsetting shoulder 34 oli the setting tool 26 provides an upsetting surface ot relatively small diameter. This restricted upsetting shoulder is adapted to be inserted through even the small lacing holes usually provided in shoe uppers which are to be invisibly eye-leted. Moreover, the sett-ing tool which is initially passed through all the layers ot the material is not withdrawn from any ot the layers until after the completion ot the eyelet setting operation so that it ensures that the holes in both the leather and lining parts of the upper are positively held in alignment with each other.

The successive eyelets are set one after another in the manner above described until the row oil' eyelets is completed.

The relative movements and manipulations of the eyelets, the work. and the setting tool required i'or inserting invisible eyelets in shoes in accordance with this novel method may be carried out by a machine having a general organization such as that illustrated in United States Letters Patent No. 608,023. Ojranted April 26, 1898 on application ot Seymour Field. T he eyeletsetting device herein illustrated is described and claimed in United States Letters Patent No. 1,434,356, granted October 8l, 1922, this application being a division olf the application upon which that patent was granted.

The illustrated. eyelet-setting` tool is provided with a shanlr 3G threaded into a sleeve 2S. a lock screw 40 maintaining the shank 30 in adjusted position in the sleeve 3S (see Fig. Surrounding the lower end ot the sleeve 38 is a slidingl sleeve 42, the lower end 44 el? which serves as an abutment to limit the movement oi the upper leather 10 puit the upsetting` shoulder 234. hilioveincnt ot the sliding sleeve 42 lengtln` ,l of sleeve 38 limited by a screw 46 threaded into sleeve 38 and passing through a slot 48 lorined in sliding sleeve 42. A coiled spring 50 surroundingr the shanlr ot the setting tool and housed in sliding sleeve 42 normally tends to main-A tain the sliding sleeve 42 at the lower limit et its path ot movement but permits that sleeve to rise it necessary to permit the passage ot the upper leather 10 past the upsetting shoulder 34. at the same 'time pressing the upper leather against the eyelet and tending to flatten the curled ends ot the eyele't prongs at the conclusion et the cleneh. Y' operation. The illust ted setting tool like the settingtool illustrated in said Letl .Patent No.

1,434,356, is formed with a contracted porll claim as new andv desire to secure by Let` ters Patent ofthe United States is z l. In the manufacture of boots and shoes, that method which consists in permanently securing together' the leather` and lining parts of an upper in the relation which they are to have in the finished shoe, punching a hole through' both parts, passing an upsetting surface through the hole inthe leather part to locate it between the two parts and inserting the barrel of an eyelet through the lining part, and [inally clenching the eyelet barrel against the upsetting surface and upon the lining part.

2, ln the manufacture of boots andshoes, that method which consists in securing together the leather and lining parts of an upper' by stitching' through both parts along the lacing slit edges and at approximately right angles thereto around the top of the upper, punching an eyelet hole through both parts within the stitched edge, introducing an upsetting surface between the parts. and clenching the end of an eyelet barrel between adjacent surfaces of the parts of the upper while the parts remain in normal relation.

ln the manufacture of boots and shoes, that method which consists in stitching and undertrimming the forward or lacing slit edo'es of an upper, punching bothy the leather settii'ig surface betweeii 'the parts through the leather part and forciiig an eyelettlu'ough the lining part and against the up setting surface until the end of its barrel is clenched on the surface of the lining part which is adjacent to the leather part.

rPhe improved method of inserting eyelets ina plurality of layers of material which comprises inse 'ting a setting tool tl'irough the layers from one side of the material` advancing' an eyeletinto engagement with the other side of the material, relatively moving the eyelet and the setting tool to force the end of the eyelet barrel through one or more of the layers into engagement with the upsetting shoulder of the tool between adjacent layers of the material, and continuing said relative movement of the setting tool and the eyelet to clench the eyelet barrel between said adjacent layers.

and liningl parts, and introducing` an up` 5. That improvement in methods of in'- scrtii'ig eyelets in plurality of layers of material and clenching the ends of the eyelets between adjacent layers of the material, which is characterized by the fact that a setting tool isinserted through a hole in the outer layer and, during relative movement of the setting tool and an eyelet, the end' of the eyelet barrel is turned over and clenched by the setting shoulder' of the tool between adjacent layers of' the material.

6. In the manufacture of boots'and shoes the liereiirdescribed method of setting blind or invisible eyelets. consisting in securing together' permanently in normal relation the leather and lining parts of a shoe upper by stitching the edges of said upper adjacent to the lacing slit, and perfor-ating both parts and setting an eyelet in one part in register with the hole in the other part while the two parts are permanently secured together and maintained in their normal relation to each other.

T. ln the manufacture of boots and shoes the method of setting blind or invisible eyeletsl consisting in securing together permaF nently in normal relation the leather and lining parts of a Ishoe upper, the entire edges of the two parts being permanently fastened together by stitching. or otherwise, and per# forating both parts and setting an eyelet in one part in register' with the hole in the other part while the two parts are permanently secured together and the' holes in both parts are positively held in alinement with each other.

8. That improvement in methods of! inserting eyelets in a plurality of layers of material which comprises inserting on one side of the layers of material a setting tool lutving an upsetting surface of 'relatively small diameter, advancing an eyelet into engagement with the other side of the material, relatively moving the' eyelet and the setting tool to force the eyelet barrel through one or more layers of the material in the hole in the material' through which the setting tool passes into engagement with the upsetting surface of the tool between adjacent layers ofthe material, thereby imparting an initial outward curl to the ends of the eyelet prongs, and continuing the relative movement to bring successive portions of the eyelet barrel back of the ends of the eyelet prongs prog'essively into engageh ment with the upsetting surface, thereby causing the ends of the prongs as they pass beyond the upsetting surface to maintain the curvature initially imparted to them by said surface and causing them to curl outward and downward between the adjacent layers of the material until thepron'gs are clenched upon the lower of said adjacent layers.

9. In the manufacture of boots and shoes lill) the improved method Which consists in permanently stitching' together the leather and lining parts of an upper in the relation which they are to have in the finished shoe hy stitching the edges of said parts together along the lacing` slit and around the top of the upper, inserting on one side of the upper a setting tool having an upsetting surtace oi relatively small diameter, advancing an eyelet into engagement With the other side oit the upper, relatively moving the eyelet and the setting; tool to bring the end oi the eyelet barrel into engagement with the upsetting surface of the tool hetween adjacent layers of the material to impart an initial outward curl to the ends of the eyelet prongs, and continuing the relative movement to bring successive portions of the eyelet barrel hack of the ends of the eyelet prongs progressively into engaoe ment with the upsetting surface, there-hy controlling` the curvature of the eyelet prongs as they passheyond the upsetting` surface and causing them to curl outward and downward between the adjacent layers of the material until the prongs are clenched upon the lower of said adjacent layers.

In testimony whereof I have signed my name to this specification in the presence of two subscribing Witnesses.

HENRY T. DOULETT.

fitnesses HERBERT lV. KENWAY, MARTHA W. COUPE. 

